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major_clangerMy main model-making interest is in aircraft, but there are a couple of AFV (armoured fighting vehicle) kits I'd like to tackle, specifically those of the ex-Soviet SA-8 mobile missile system and ZSU-23/4 mobile anti-aircraft gun, because in the late 1990s my job involved helping support the examples of each the RAF operates at the Spadeadam electronic warfare range. (They'd been obtained via the Germans after reunification, and getting hold of spares was an interesting challenge).
So I wanted to get some AFV model practice, and in particular to try out the painting, detailing and weathering of such models before I had a go at a serious build. I was particularly interested in trying what's become a popular technique for painting AFV models, colour modulation. This involves using different shades to mimic the fall of light and shadow on an otherwise fairly uniform-coloured model with the aim of making it look more realistic, or at least less like a small model. I thus picked up a 1/72 kit of a T-90 and a 'Russian Green' modulated paint set. I recently part-assembled the T-90 kit, not all the way but far enough to have something to practice on, and today had a go at seeing if I could make this technique work.
Here's the unpainted model (as you can see I didn't bother with the tracks) and the paint kit.
The kit comprises a primer, four successively lighter shades of green, and a satin-finish varnish. Simple painting instructions are on the back of the box.
Having primed the tank I started with the darkest shade. The instructions suggested painting vertical or shaded areas, and also detailed areas that would create shadows.
Then a medium green was applied to horizontal areas that would be better lit.
A lighter and brighter green was then applied to upward-facing panels and areas.
Finally a light green was applied again in the centre of such areas, and also along edges that would show contrast and the model was then coated in satin varnish.
The result was certainly much more interesting than a plain green, although I felt there was perhaps a little too much contrast.
I therefore tried another technique I'd read about, which was to apply a 'filter' - a thin translucent layer to reduce contrast. I took the second, medium, green and diluted it down about 3:1 with acrylic thinners, then sprayed a thin coat evenly over the whole model. That evened out some of the differences in shade and, I think, made for a more subtle and realistic effect.
However, this still looks like a model, because on a real tank there would be shadows and dirt around raised areas or in crevices. The next step was thus to spray the model with a gloss varnish and then to use a very small brush (actually one of those tiny plastic make-up brushes) to add dark green wash. I used pre-made Humbrol wash, although a mix of green and black oil colour dissolved in thinner would also do. (The gloss varnish was to let the wash flow over the model and into cracks rather than just stick to the surface.) I let it dry and then used a cotton bud moistened with white spirit to clean it off flat areas, leaving the dark residue in the nooks and crannies of the model.
Finally, a coat of matt varnish got rid of the unrealistic shininess and restored the model to a more realistic appearance.
Verdict: well, it seems to work! Given that this is my first go at even making an AFV model, let alone trying this painting technique, I think the result is not too bad. It's certainly given me confidence that I can get this and have a go at recreating this.
So I wanted to get some AFV model practice, and in particular to try out the painting, detailing and weathering of such models before I had a go at a serious build. I was particularly interested in trying what's become a popular technique for painting AFV models, colour modulation. This involves using different shades to mimic the fall of light and shadow on an otherwise fairly uniform-coloured model with the aim of making it look more realistic, or at least less like a small model. I thus picked up a 1/72 kit of a T-90 and a 'Russian Green' modulated paint set. I recently part-assembled the T-90 kit, not all the way but far enough to have something to practice on, and today had a go at seeing if I could make this technique work.
Here's the unpainted model (as you can see I didn't bother with the tracks) and the paint kit.
The kit comprises a primer, four successively lighter shades of green, and a satin-finish varnish. Simple painting instructions are on the back of the box.
Having primed the tank I started with the darkest shade. The instructions suggested painting vertical or shaded areas, and also detailed areas that would create shadows.
Then a medium green was applied to horizontal areas that would be better lit.
A lighter and brighter green was then applied to upward-facing panels and areas.
Finally a light green was applied again in the centre of such areas, and also along edges that would show contrast and the model was then coated in satin varnish.
The result was certainly much more interesting than a plain green, although I felt there was perhaps a little too much contrast.
I therefore tried another technique I'd read about, which was to apply a 'filter' - a thin translucent layer to reduce contrast. I took the second, medium, green and diluted it down about 3:1 with acrylic thinners, then sprayed a thin coat evenly over the whole model. That evened out some of the differences in shade and, I think, made for a more subtle and realistic effect.
However, this still looks like a model, because on a real tank there would be shadows and dirt around raised areas or in crevices. The next step was thus to spray the model with a gloss varnish and then to use a very small brush (actually one of those tiny plastic make-up brushes) to add dark green wash. I used pre-made Humbrol wash, although a mix of green and black oil colour dissolved in thinner would also do. (The gloss varnish was to let the wash flow over the model and into cracks rather than just stick to the surface.) I let it dry and then used a cotton bud moistened with white spirit to clean it off flat areas, leaving the dark residue in the nooks and crannies of the model.
Finally, a coat of matt varnish got rid of the unrealistic shininess and restored the model to a more realistic appearance.
Verdict: well, it seems to work! Given that this is my first go at even making an AFV model, let alone trying this painting technique, I think the result is not too bad. It's certainly given me confidence that I can get this and have a go at recreating this.
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Date: 2016-01-23 07:09 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2016-01-24 10:19 am (UTC)As to where some of the spares came from, that was rather murkier. We would talk to a US Army organisation, which liaised with [TLA REDACTED] who Knew A Bloke in [COUNTRY REDACTED] and so on...
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Date: 2016-01-24 10:26 am (UTC)"So where do your spars come from?" asked the Air Marshal. I'm not kidding, he had the sort of John Cole Ulster accent that meant he pronounced 'spares' as 'spars'.
"Pardon?" said M.
"SPARS!" retorted the Air Marshal. "Replacements. For. Broken. Bits!"
"Oh, you mean spares" replied M, enunciating it something like spay-yur-es, as our unit CO tried not to visibly hide under a desk in embarrassment as one of his junior officers corrected the non-RP accent of his AOC.
no subject
Date: 2016-01-24 11:47 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2016-01-24 11:48 am (UTC)