The plan for Day 3 had been to drive north-east out of Regensburg to the northern end of the Bayerscher Wald, or
Bavarian Forest, the national park that runs roughly north-west to south-east along the Geman/Czech border. It has a reputation of being very pretty, and probably is on a nice day.
Unfortunately, it wasn't a nice day.
I'd planned a route into the forest along what were marked on our map as the scenic roads. However, the forest is at an elevation of several hundred metres, and that's pretty much where the cloudbase was. Add rain that varied from drizzle to bucketing down, and most of our view consisted of narrow road, trees and the odd glimpse into bits of valley that would have looked lovely if not full of cloud. Also, very out-of-season looking ski resorts. We eventually stopped for a snack at a rather traditional-looking ski lodge, where we got to try the very nice Bavarian sweet
Kaiserschmarrn - basically, shredded pancake with fruit preserve. Tasty and filling, but like much Bavarian cuisine probably not good for you in excess (where 'excess' is 'more than one portion a month').
We needed somewhere to stay, and on the advice of our guidebook had picked Zwiesel. Apparently, Zwiesel is the centre of the regional glass industry and, um, they make glass there. Oh, and have they mentioned the glass shops? It also had a hotel where the interior design was so 1970s it almost hurt. We quickly escaped to look around Zwiesel, which turned out to resemble a Bavarian version of [insert dull Home Counties town of your choice here]. In the rain.
There was a glass factory, where you could wander round looking at glass products being made (interesting for about ten minutes) and then exit through, yes, a huge shop full of glassware. Outside was the Great Wineglass Pyramid of Zwiesel, of which more in a moment.
About the only thing to see in the town itself was the
Waldmuseum. It's rather odd, to say the least. There was a complete C19th pharmacy on one floor, and a huge selection of saws and other tools on another. The wildlife display comprised an array of the scariest stuffed animals I've ever seen. We fled.
After another look at the guidebook we drove a few miles to Frauenau, which was smaller but prettier and had a glass museum that was actually a museum about glass rather than a glorified shop. (
Website, in German.) As well as a genuinely good museum about the history of glassmaking, it also had an art gallery of glassware ranging from "I'd love that!" to "Didn't H P Lovecraft write about that sort of artist?"
By now the weather was easing up a bit so having returned to the hotel for a nap we headed out in the other direction, to the hill village of Bodenmais. Bodenmais is everything Zwiesel isn't - mainly
pretty - as well as being hilly to the point it makes Guildford or Edinburgh look flat. We ended up dining in the restaurant of the Hotel Neue Post, where the food was both excellent and (44 Euros for the two of us) very good value.
On the way back to our hotel we passed through the centre of Zwiesel again and got to see the Great Wineglass Pyramid
as illuminated at night.

Yup, 94,000 wine glasses nicely stacked up. I worked out that if a normal portion of German white wine had been poured into each that would be about sixteen and a half tons of liebfraumich, which may be a disturbing image for some.